How much cement is needed?
Shown here is a chart to estimate the amount of cement needed for a job:
Shown here is a chart to estimate the amount of cement needed for a job:
| PIPE SIZE |
1/2"
|
1"
|
2"
|
3"
|
4"
|
6"
|
8"
|
12"
|
|
Ave. Joints Per Pint
|
175
|
90
|
40
|
20
|
15
|
6
|
2
|
1
|
|
Ave. Joints Per Liter
|
375
|
190
|
85
|
42
|
32
|
13
|
4
|
2
|
What are plastic pipe cements and how do they work?
A plastic pipe cement is a mixture of plastic resin dissolved in solvents. The cement works by solvent action on the plastic surfaces. See Arrow "How and Why" sheet for additional information.
How strong is a solvent-cemented plastic pipe joint?
Plastic pipe cements are designed to make a plastic pipe joint which is as strong or stronger than the pipe being used. See Arrow Products section for strength data.
What are the main installation problems to avoid?
(Also see "Abnormal Conditions")
Loose-Fitting Joints - 1/3 to 2/3 dry fit is recommended. Dry fit is the fraction that the pipe can be pushed into dry fitting without cement.
Improper Cement Selection - Follow guidelines on can or data sheet for proper pipe diameter and cement selection.
Pipe Burrs - After cutting the pipe, remove any burrs to avoid a leak.
Insufficient Cleaning - For best results, use Arrow Primer, S-911, for pressure applications, and Arrow Cleaner, S-901, for non-pressure.
Not Enough Cement Used - After cementing, a properly made joint will show a bead of cement completely around the pipe/fitting interface. Wipe off the bead for faster curing.
A plastic pipe cement is a mixture of plastic resin dissolved in solvents. The cement works by solvent action on the plastic surfaces. See Arrow "How and Why" sheet for additional information.
How strong is a solvent-cemented plastic pipe joint?
Plastic pipe cements are designed to make a plastic pipe joint which is as strong or stronger than the pipe being used. See Arrow Products section for strength data.
What are the main installation problems to avoid?
(Also see "Abnormal Conditions")
Loose-Fitting Joints - 1/3 to 2/3 dry fit is recommended. Dry fit is the fraction that the pipe can be pushed into dry fitting without cement.
Improper Cement Selection - Follow guidelines on can or data sheet for proper pipe diameter and cement selection.
Pipe Burrs - After cutting the pipe, remove any burrs to avoid a leak.
Insufficient Cleaning - For best results, use Arrow Primer, S-911, for pressure applications, and Arrow Cleaner, S-901, for non-pressure.
Not Enough Cement Used - After cementing, a properly made joint will show a bead of cement completely around the pipe/fitting interface. Wipe off the bead for faster curing.
Is there a way I can tell if I have made a good joint?
During installation, you can get an indication of a good joint if the pipe "grabs" (i.e. fuses) the fitting a few seconds after joining and becomes a firm union. If the pipe is wobbly in the fitting after cementing, it indicates a loose-fitting joint and should not be used. The use of a primer prior to cementing overcomes some installation problems and will make a stronger joint. Allow sufficient time for joints to cure based on conditions such as pipe size, temperature, humidity, before pressurizing. Please refer to the Arrow Set/Cure Schedule for additional information.
During installation, you can get an indication of a good joint if the pipe "grabs" (i.e. fuses) the fitting a few seconds after joining and becomes a firm union. If the pipe is wobbly in the fitting after cementing, it indicates a loose-fitting joint and should not be used. The use of a primer prior to cementing overcomes some installation problems and will make a stronger joint. Allow sufficient time for joints to cure based on conditions such as pipe size, temperature, humidity, before pressurizing. Please refer to the Arrow Set/Cure Schedule for additional information.